Monday, September 7, 2015

Billings MT to Gillette WY: Travelogue




My stop in Billings, wasn't exactly what I would call 'Eventful.' Ultimately it was a place to stop on my way to Gillette.

Using the Untappd app I decided to head to the Montana Brewing company for a beer and some food.

One of the only problems I ran into was deciding if I should pay for parking in a lot, or drop coinage into the meter on the street. Pulling into the parking lot several blocks from the Brewery, I approached what appeared to be the payment booth. What I found at the ‘payment booth,’ for lack of a better term, was a box with a slot and a bin that contained small envelopes and a pens:

The definition of the Honor system.

Well… Several problems presented with this rather old method of rectifying the exchange of monetary payment.

First: I only had large bills. I was expecting to pay with a card.

Second: Billings had apparently gotten the same rain I had driven through. The envelopes were all sealed.

Third: I naturally had no desire to pay for parking.

I moved on to the idea of street parking. Upon finding a spot I was in turn presented with the issue of parking meters.

Problem One: I have no change.

Problem Two: Its Saturday evening, there aren't exactly a lot of  businesses that are open in my proximity I can go into and make change. Zero on this block, in fact.

Problem Three: I naturally have no desire to pay for parking.

In turn, I began checking all the meters other various cars were posted in front of. I noticed only several had been paid, but indicative of the expired Liquid Crystal Display that was flashing in the view windows, many had not.

By law of averages, I decided not to feed the meter or endeavor to find change to do so.

With that decided I made my way to the Montana Brewing Company and as I 'the Skypoint' :

A photo posted by Brian Dykeman (@brian.dykeman) on

I in turn asked some ‘local appearing’ folks walking down the street if they knew if it was necessary to pay the meters on the weekend. They verified for me it was not and I in turn began to figuratively skip my way down the street to my destination.

Approaching the Brewery it was obvious Sturgis Bike week was having an influence. Even as far away as it still was there were many bikes parked out front. The business was bustling. The patio area was chalked full of folks as was the interior. But as usually happens, there is room at the bar. Upon ordering food (Mac and Cheese) and a Custer’s Last Stout:
it seemed the rather homely woman sitting to my left’ on the other side of a curve was staring at me the whole time. I tried casually glancing to affirm this was the case and maybe see if I would catch her turning away, as people do when they are caught staring. This wasn’t the case. Her attention was dedicated. I decided if she wanted to watch me eat, that was her awkward prerogative. At some point I finally realized she was in fact watching the coverage of some sports event on a silent Television I was sitting directly in line with.

Ticketlessly hitting the road after, I found gas and began to advance to the outer edges of the Montana Border. With physical fatigue beginning to set a road sign along Interstate 90/Highway 87 informed me I was closing in on Custer’s Last Stand. I had forgotten I had planned to see the area. Energy emerged from the depths as I realized something would be breaking up what I had foreseen would simply be a mashing of the pedals for the remainder of the evening. I found myself getting anxiously advancing to see the area.

Once I was upon the exit and over the highway overpass I made the corresponding turn onto Highway 212. To my immediate left was what was toted as a Custer’s Battlefield Trading post. A building with an exterior composed of old, unpainted wood, surrounded by other reclaimed, empty old and equally rustic and rotting wood structures; the likes of which may have previously existed as chicken coups or smoke houses that had been picked from areas obviously foreign to its current resting existence, I pulled the car over and made my way inside to… purchase a ticket or… whatever I needed to do to see the site.

I was quite surprised when I found the Trading post was strictly a gift shop. Obviously… a gift shop. A comprehensive one at that, Native American and Last stand souvenirs and literature galore, I utilized the misappropriated stop to relive myself and also buy a few conservative souvenirs. Feeling like I had been commercially fooled stop in, I verified with the woman selling me the trinkets “the battlefield is across the street.” She nodded and as quickly as I could without drawing attention to the fact I was trying to rush, I made way to the car and made way to the actual location of the ‘Last Stand.’
    
Why in my mind I imagined; what actually exists as a National Park, would for some reason be located behind what was tantamount to ‘a themed attraction’ I couldn’t begin to say. But it began to resonate as foolish to me as I pressed down the gas and spun my tires upon the parking lot’s gravel to make it to the ‘Actual’ Last Stand.

So, it goes, I once again couldn’t believe I had been duped again into going to the wrong place, as is my way. I advanced up the long road I imagined was a that long drive way to the Battlefield.
To think I would have to ‘purchase’ a ticket to see a graveyard. I smiled and shook my head as I pulled up to the closed, black, wrought iron gates. Seeing no one in the guard shack I slowly shifted my attention to the sign with the Park’s posted hours.

8:00 AM -  8:00 PM
My watch: 20:06 (8:06 PM)

God damn, Trading post. My eyes look over the rest of the information:

Cost for the day:
Private Vehicle : $10.00
Pedestrian : $5.00

… Tickets.

Negotiating the car into a U turn, I figuratively throw up my hands knowing even if I hadn’t gone into the gift shop I wouldn’t have had time to see anything in the park worth the fifteen bucks I would have had to pay to go in; had they even let me do so with such a short amount of time before the 8:00 closing time.

And with the sun setting directly ahead of the length of the park’s long driveway I set out to find put some of Wyoming’s landscape behind me.

Somehow the darkness made the drive drag on. And dark it was. Aside from the headlights of other cars, there was a complete lack of ambient light. Nary star, moon or street light it felt as if nothing existed outside the limits of my car’s own illumination. Pulling into a gas station that cut the night with its own signage I verified this observation with a local that gassed up his own rig. “Where do you live,” I asked, aiming my sightline up and down dark streets that didn’t exist past the limits of the light the station emitted. “Here, in town,” he said. “Dark as sin out here,” I added. A complete absence of light being something I hadn’t been around in quite some time…. Maybe never. He laughed and replaced the Gasoline Nozzle. “Have a good night,” I said before he replied some respective courtesy and disappeared.

Strange that small talk seems to be so foreign or abstract now a days. Even mustering the courage to advance it sometimes seems ill conceived.

Advance upon Gillette was much of the same: Zero to little light. That was until the city lay two or three miles away. But when I was outside town I knew it. Billboards littered both sides of the highway.
Hotels, Motels, Mcdonalds… whatever.

My aim though, was Walmart. Why?
Well, apparently; as unglamorous as it may seem, Walmart allows people that are traveling… in R.V.’s anyway, to stay in their parking lot. I gambled that, maybe me camping would go unnoticed, or at least, wouldn’t be frowned upon and if it was, I’d explain myself and angle to be able to stay until morning if it was a problem and or sleep in the car or move on to somewhere inconspicuous… who knew, I’d cross that bridge when I got there, should it present itself.

Reaching Walmart, I drove around its sizable, shared and occupied parking lot. There were many R.V.’s and even a Semi Tractor Trailer or two occupying the area. I drove around for quite awhile, looking for the most pristine area to bed down for the night. Most of it… like a Walmart parking lot would, looked unappealing. Donation Dumpsters, Bright lights, for better or worse, illuminating the grounds, and a lot of open, treeless ground in areas where I might like to set up and go unseen from the road and parking lot, if possible. Advertising my presence wasn’t exactly my goal, should camping there without an R.V. be unwarranted.

But before too long I made my way to the empty portion of the parking lot shared with Walmart by a KMart. 
Funny, as I remember K Mart being the shit when I was a child… Home of the Bluelight special and Cherry Icee. Anymore… who knows what’s in there. KMart seems to stand as more of a beacon for the White Trash of our times that even the White Trash attracted to Walmart won’t lower themselves to entertaining.

Before too long, at the very back of the parking lot, in the grass next to a Van was a tent. With plenty of space behind the van for me to pull in ahead of an RV I decided to pull in and set up my bed for the night. Unlike Walmart, the Kmart portion of the lot; for better or worse, was not illuminated. Beside the tent were two men. As it turned out one was sleeping in the van that night and the other was going to be occupying the tent.

As I broke out and began setting up my cot the man in the tent approached and we began talking. The other man retired to his van and I began to learn the gentleman in the tent was, what he calls ‘Walking on Faith.’

Apparently everything he had was gifted to him by people he met on his journey to Colorado. To include the cloths he was wearing. He joked he didn’t start off naked, but he didn’t exactly explain how he didn’t start off naked, if everything was gifted to him. I’m supposing he tossed whatever he had originally. It turned out he had been going through Sturgis the days prior and had met the man in the van who, from the sounds of it was going to be taking him all the way to Colorado.

This was quite the man to meet. He was a close talker, at times getting in the way of me trying to set up my own camp and at others, pumping me for information I wasn’t too keen on offering up to a stranger. Well intentioned enough, I came to find out he also had a Dog with him (in the tent) that he spoke of affectionately. Named ‘Bear,’ of all things he spoke of having to often talk to the authorities because reports of animal abuse would often get called in as he walked the roads and highways of the nation. People being highly concerned with the welfare of the dog, assuming it was under duress being so far away from towns and cities on the road; at least as it was related to me.

Looking at his tent as I opened my car doors and closed them on the top of a camouflage tarp I purchased (also at a Walmart) several days before,  I eyed a sizable Radio Flyer wagon under a heap load. “Some people gave me the wagon,” he said, making his way over to the load. “Another guy gave me these materials to fashion into this harness,” he said, lifting the Wagon’s handle and showing me the harness I could barely see in the low light. “Everything I have has been gifted,” he reiterated. He continues to regard his trip and how things have worked out; the harness coming into his life when he just about couldn’t physically pull the wagon by its handle anymore, Dog food and water coming into his life when he was just about out, et cetera.

Listening and interacting, asking questions and trying my best to engage I decide to let my fellow camper know its time for me to crash. Not taking the hint, he continues to talk about an ailment he recently found out his wife is suffering with; heart aneurysm or some such seeming death sentence, if I remember correctly. He relates that people he has encountered and explained this to have asked him if he is doing the walk for her, for donations, et cetera. He says, no its not for that and goes on to talk about the things he is directly concerned about, making it to Colorado, his dog. I figuratively scratch my head at the idea he just left his wife to her life to 'Walk on Faith.' His concern really seems to be for immediate concerns and relating what he has discovered during the course of his journey. He then tells me he's asked many veterans if they have 'Killed anyone,' a question he also asked me. I let him know it isn't the best of questions to ask Veterans, rude more or less. And he doesnt seem to understand. He says he likes to do it to test and see if the people he is talking to think they are 'Bad Asses.' I internally shake my head, he doesn't want to be told my concerns for asking such a question and the harm it could potentially cause him asking the wrong question. Up until this point he hasn't seemed like the kind of person that would instigate conflict, but with his resolve to seem amused at the prospect and continue to justify asking people even as I try to explain my view, I let it go and reexamine if only for a little while who he might really be underneath his seeming exterior.  

I ask about social media, if he is relating his journey via that medium. He skirts the topic aside from mentioning he has considered it so far as activating an account, but not checking in with it. He further introduces the fact he has a phone but doesn't really use it for that. And even though I am quasi curious how he pays for data and service 'On Faith,' I skirt the idea of actually asking, not really one hundred percent committed to finding out if it such realities blow a hole in his holistic journey on generosity; finding myself  I'm also puzzled 

I again expound it is probably time for me to go to sleep he finally gets the clue. Taking a final drag on his cigarette he agrees and retires to his tent as I crawl under my tarp, onto my cot and into my sleeping bag.

My first night openly ‘Urban Camping’ I restlessly toss and turn at the sound of the tarp pulling taut and slack against the incoming gusts of wind. I obviously didn’t pull it tight enough against the cot and under its legs. Learning a lesson for future camp set up.         

       

Merits mentioning:
The Painted Road Project:
I was searching for info on the downtown Billings Skypoint sculpture and in the midst of looking through results on Google images I saw an image of the hay sculpture I saw when heading to Dobson, MT. In their particular post along they covered the advance this post concerns and more. I was a little jealous they went through the Badlands of South Dakota, as I drove right through it but that's later... Anyway, check 'em out and see some of what I saw on my way to Gillette, Wyoming.




      

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